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Circular economy and innovation are among the priorities of the Group’s sustainability strategy. From the garment design phase to the end-of-life. The challenge is to develop new technologies and materials, minimise the resources used for production, increase the use of low environmental impact resources, extend product life and promote the reuse of materials.
To implement a circular economy model, sustainability must be integrated into the product and processes by acting on various aspects ranging from the choice of raw materials made from recycled resources to initiatives that extend product use and life, such as dedicated repair services, to garment design aimed at fostering recovery and recycling, to production processes, distribution and packaging with a low environmental impact. These are all aspects that require an aptitude for innovation, to experiment with new solutions and collaborate with all the actors in the supply chain.
Some of the key principles of the circular economy, such as garments durability, have always been a part of Moncler’s DNA. The high quality and timeliness of its products ensure that they have a very long average life. This characteristic was the foundation of the Extra-Life project, which is a service aimed at providing a second life to Moncler’s jackets through specific repairs. In 2021 the initiative was launched at a selected group of stores in Italy, France and Denmark, involving tailors from local repair platforms and sharing with the client the garment repair solutions. With an efficient, personalised service, tailors are able to repair damaged fabrics, thus extending product life. In 2022 the project will be extended to other Regions where Moncler operates with the aim of achieving global coverage by the end of the year.
In 2021, through this initiative, in the areas where the service has been activated, Moncler has received repairing requests from its customers for about 34,000 used garments (corresponding to about 30 tons in weight), and was able to successfully repair around 83% of them. The ones that couldn’t be repaired, went through a process of recycling, where possible. Over the next years, Moncler is committed to continuing extend this advanced repair service for the garments used by its customers in other countries, thus expecting also to increase the number of used garments collected to be repaired. Moncler’s first objective will always be to ensure a longer life to these garments through advanced repair techniques. At the same time, Moncler expects and is committed to increase accordingly the volume of recycled materials from used garments included in new collections through the development of innovative techniques.
With regards to product durability, the information reported within the care labels on our products and in the composition & care section on our website indicates specific washing and care guidelines that are studied to engage and educate customers to take care of their garments in the most appropriate ways, extending their lifespan as much as possible. In particular, the care labels suggest that the washing phase should be performed at low temperatures and with the exclusion of tumble drying,
in order to limit the deterioration of the garments’ materials (e.g. possible shedding of plastic microfibers). In any case, the majority of Moncler’s products is comprised of outerwear nylon fabric garments, a product that usually does not undergo frequent washing (approximately once a year), and that is not composed of brushed fabrics, which represent the type of fabrics that is most subject to shedding of plastic microfibers.
Both Moncler and Stone Island are also committed to use recycled raw materials.
The Stone Island upcycling project, that will be implemented in 2022, aims at recovering cotton scraps generated by suppliers during the garment production phases. The scraps will be processed through a mechanical recycling process that will enable the production of high-quality recycled fabrics that will then be included in the Brand’s collections. In 2021, Moncler presented an upcycling project in collaboration with the designer Chen Peng who, according to a circular economy approach, gave new life to some iconic Moncler jackets from previous seasons with new details and design components. In addition, in 2021 Moncler started recycling the first tonne of DIST-certified down, exclusively sourced from geese from the food supply chain, of which it is therefore a by-product that if not used would simply be disposed.
In 2019 Moncler began introducing sustainable products into its collections, such as BIO-based and carbon-neutral down jacket, made with plant-based materials and whose emissions have been offset through REDD+ certified projects, as well as a range of garments made from recycled fabrics in the Moncler Grenoble collection, and getting to the launch, in January 2021, of a selection of “Born to Protect” jackets made entirely from recycled materials within the Moncler Men, Women and Enfant collections.
In 2022, the Moncler Born To Protect project was expanded to become a total look, including, in addition to jackets, also different types of garments and accessories, entirely made from fabrics and components with low environmental impact and certified according to specific sustainability standards. Further information on the materials in the collection can be found at: https://www.monclergroup.com/en/sustainability/think-circular-bold/born-to-protect-collection.
By 2025, 50% of the nylon used in Moncler collections will be recycled nylon. In 2021, Stone Island integrated sustainable materials and treatments into its collection, maintaining the technical and performance aspect of its products but with lower environmental impacts, for example making garments from recycled nylon and polyester and from organic cotton. In addition, in recent seasons, low-water consumption treatments have also been used for outerwear made with Soft Shell e.dye® waterless colour system™. The assessment of the environmental impact of materials and components is supported by Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) analyses that quantify the potential impacts associated with certain products. These analyses, which are based on a structured methodology and in line with ISO 14040, 14044 and 14067 are certified by an independent, external third-party.
These are a useful tool for considerations the Group is carrying out on the sustainability of products, processes and materials. To date, an assessment with LCA methodology has been carried out on about 70% of the Group’s products. In particular, in 2021 two further LCAs have been carried out on a jacket and on a sweater from the Moncler Born To Protect collection, launched in January 2022, to analyse in detail the environmental impacts of these type of products, characterised by low-impact materials, and to compare them with other Group’s products. In this same direction, in 2020 Moncler drew up the Guidelines on Sustainable Materials, a protocol that summarises the criteria and thresholds for guiding the choice of materials, accessories and production processes for low-impact Moncler products; the protocol will see an evolution with the Responsible Raw Materials Manual in 2023. The main raw materials used by the Moncler Group are fabrics, yarns and down. Both Brands constantly collaborate with their suppliers and require production processes be structured so as to optimise materials use and cutting, avoiding scraps and waste. The Group’s commercial strategy is based on the principle of scarcity and, from an operational point of view, on effective warehouse management, which translates into efficient production planning, with the right quantities at the right time and in the right place in order to avoid excessive inventories. This approach, combined with a high level of sell-through, allows to limit the amount of unsold products. In the case seasonal garments, namely those that are offered for one season only (these are different from carry-overs, which can be reoffered for several seasons), remain unsold, they are firstly placed in the outlet channel managed by the Company or marketed through “Family and Friends” sales initiatives. In addition, in collaboration with non-governmental organisations (NGOs), some of the them are also donated to people in difficult situations through the Warmly Moncler programme, designed to protect people from the cold.
Lastly, the limited number of remaining products is recycled through innovative and experimental processes. In 2021 the Moncler Group further refined its system for selecting and collecting garments that can no longer be sold in collaboration with several international companies with leading roles in fabric reuse and recycling. Depending on the category, products are recycled and destined to different uses such as the creation of new yarns or components for jackets, the production of furnishings and of objects often used as visual merchandising for stores. In 2021, from the recycling of nylon fabrics present at the warehouse, new components used in four jacket models of the Moncler 2022 collections were realised. The Group is looking for continuous solutions to develop circular products and processes. For this reason, annual R&D investments are allocated to explore and identify new solutions with a circular approach, also with the collaboration and assistance of international start-ups. Besides innovative creative designs, the brand maintains a base of garments (including carry overs and permanent) that are always present in stores representing approximately 30% of the Group’s total revenues.
The Moncler Group believes in open innovation paths that also involve external players such as suppliers, universities and innovation centres.
Since 2020 Moncler has been working with the start-up accelerator Plug & Play, a platform that brings together the best international start-ups with partner companies to create development and innovation opportunities. In 2021 Moncler also conducted LCA analyses through an organisation that developed an innovative proprietary methodology.
Moncler also constantly works with its suppliers to identify innovative solutions for the business. In 2021 the Company combined its specific expertise on down with that of a supplier specialised in recycling technologies, creating a machinery that allows to recycle DIST-certified down through an innovative mechanical process, currently object of patent application.
Since 2019, Stone Island has been working with Startupbootcamp,
a global start-ups acceleration network that operates in different industries. Over the past few years, the Company started scouting activities in four main areas: reduction of water consumption in dyeing processes, recycling and full degradability of garments, development of printing processes, assembling and treatment of materials, as well as insulation, lamination and knitting systems.
LAB LIFE Culture
Stone Island has always thrived on constant and ongoing research, textile experimentation and innovation, and it believes in functionality as an expression of unique and inimitable beauty. This culture translates in the two pillars of the Brand: LAB and LIFE.
The first name is an abbreviation for “laboratory”, the place where products are tested and designed, and refers to the constant investigation on fibres and fabrics transformation and finishing which leads to the discovery of materials and production techniques never used before in the apparel industry.
In this context the jackets made from monofilament nylon,
derived from water filtration technology were created, as well as the highly reflective or heat-sensitive fabrics and the light and coated nylon fabrics, used in aviation technology to protect on-board computers.
The second, LIFE, represents the experience, identity and status perceived by those who wear Stone Island brand products. It is the strong and recognisable aesthetic that stems from the study of uniforms and work clothes, redesigned according to new usage requirements, and defining a project in which a garment’s function is never merely aesthetic.
Stone Island Prototype Research_Series 05 Copper Nanotechnology On Raso
During the Milan Design Week 2021, Stone Island presented, through a dedicated installation, Prototype Research_Series 05 Copper Nanotechnology On Raso, a study aimed at investigating the natural oxidation characteristics of copper in the atmospheric environment.
The Prototype Research Series, realised by Stone Island since 2016, are native-limited editions, numbered garments, made with fabrics and/or treatments resulting from research and trials that have not yet been industrialised
In January 2022, Moncler launched its second Moncler Born to Protect collection, reflecting the brand’s dedication to protecting the planet and creating a better future for all.
Made of a variety of lower impact materials, this year the collection went beyond jackets to incorporate a full range of ready-to-wear garments and accessories for men, women and children. Materials used for fabrics and other components include recycled nylon and polyester, organic cotton, and other materials such as wool and down2 sourced according to specific sustainability standards certified to specific sustainability standards. (Further information on the materials in the collection can be found at: https://www.monclergroup.com/en/sustainability/think-circular/born-to-protect-collection
The Moncler Born To Protect insignia embellishes the exterior of every piece and inside the jackets there’s a playful comic strip featuring the iconic Monduck, who has been gracing the inner lining of Moncler jackets since the 1960s. The Monduck character tells the story of Moncler Born To Protect’s approach to lower impact materials.
At Moncler what started as a clear mission to protect from the cold has evolved to a commitment to protect people and the planet, while acknowledging the monumental task that lies ahead and the commitment it requires.
As stated in the new campaign “We used to climb mountains. Now we must move them”.
To accompany the new collection, a visual campaign and short film merge ‘recycled’ archival footage and stunning alpine images in an homage to Moncler’s mountain DNA and commitment to our shared future. The collection’s manifesto is stamped on campaign imagery: “Moncler Born To Protect. Our promise to tomorrow starts today, with a clear commitment to create a better future and protect people and the planet”. The Moncler Born to Protect collection was sold on moncler.com and at selected Moncler boutiques and was very well received by clients registering a very high sell-through.
2 Moncler exclusively uses down that is a by-product of the food industry and that is traced and certified according to the DIST Protocol.
1 Includes components of other raw materials that are not particularly significant in terms of volumes, such as silk, viscose, etc..