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For the Moncler Group, quality has always been and will continue to be a priority. In the pursuit of excellence, the Group allows no compromises: from the choice of the finest materials, through the precise manufacture of the garments, to the selection of the best suppliers trained and supported by specialised experts.
Product quality, safety and innovation are focus of attention for the Moncler Group. To this end, both Moncler and Stone Island implement strict controls over the entire value chain. Each product is designed and manufactured under the direct and close supervision of Group’s experts. Both Brands manage internally the creative phase and the development of prototypes and make use of constantly supervised third-party workshops to manufacture finished products in addition to, for Moncler, of its production site in Romania.
Quality and safety are priorities for the Group right from the phase of garment design and raw material purchase. The quality of the down, nylon, cotton and other raw materials used to produce the garments of both Brands, combined with constant research and experimentation, are fundamental elements to ensure an excellent final product. For this reason, the Group carefully selects its suppliers and subjects its materials to rigorous controls before production and to accurate assessments on composition, chemical substances and physical-mechanical characteristics, so as to ensure the expected technical performance. In particular, the Group contractually requires its production partners to operate in full compliance with the most restrictive international regulations on chemical substances and performance, including the European Union’s REACH regulation11, China’s GB12 standards and Japanese JIS standards13.
Suppliers are contractually bound to comply with the instructions contained in the Compliance Specifications containing the main compliance requirements of both Brands for their suppliers and subcontractors, including dyeworks, cleaners and embroideries. Specifications are periodically updated, taking into account international regulations and voluntary parameters and commitments made by Moncler and Stone Island and include the Product Restricted Substances List (PRSL), the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and, for Moncler, the Manual of Performances for performance and physical-mechanical requirements.
In 2021 a working group was launched to review and update the PRSL and MRSL at Group level. This process concluded with the subsequent publication in February 2022.
In particular, the PRSL applies to materials, treatments and products, and includes not only the requirements of the most restrictive regulations of countries where products are manufactured and sold but also olther more restrictive voluntary requirements, in line with a precautionary approach.
The PRSL has been prepared, with the support and verification of consultants and testing and certification companies, taking into account the requirements of the main
industry standards (including the American Apparel and Footwear Association – AAFA and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), certification schemes of independent bodies, and the peculiarities of both Brands’ products.
The names of the relevant chemical substances and formulations, the CAS (Chemical Abstract Service) registry number, the analysis methods to be applied and reference parameters to comply with are reported. They also indicate the substances and target parameters for which suppliers are encouraged to improve and find alternatives. The Group is aware of the importance of monitoring the chemical substances used in the production process to prevent potential contamination of materials, products, water and sludge. This monitoring is governed by the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) which, together with the PRSL, defines the list of substances that suppliers and subcontractors have to monitor during the various production phases in order to anticipate and reduce the risk of possible critical issues relating to products, materials and the environment, and provide the basis for a proper production method and root-cause analysis. The Group’s MRSL was defined taking into account the main industry standards (such as the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals – ZDHC, to which Stone Island adheres since 2021) and requires for further investigation and specific requirements.
The MRSL and PRSL apply to all levels of the supply chain involved in the production of materials and products. For parameters, substances, methods and detection limits, suppliers are required to refer to the MRSL and/or PRSL depending on the substrates analysed and considered.
The MRSL and PRSL govern more than 350 chemicals and are two important tools in the Group’s strategy to keep reducing its environmental impacts.
Suppliers and subcontractors, especially those involved in wet processes, are encouraged to proactively develop a chemical management system through which monitor and test chemicals, water and sludge, in addition to materials, components, products and treatments. This includes keeping the chemical inventory and documentation up to date, as well as implementing batch traceability and screening and/or testing different chemical formulations at least seasonally, if not via sampling or during inspections.
Suppliers must verify that concentrations of substances identified in any substrate ensure compliance with legal requirements or with those of the Group, if more restrictive, and investigate the source of any problems, taking the appropriate corrective actions.
Both Brands monitor compliance with the requirements based on a sample check procedure that identifies the samples to be tested, frequency and tests to be performed.
Test activities, carried out seasonally, start with the materials research phase and continue with the prototyping, sampling, and production phases.
Samples and substances to be tested are selected considering the type of materials (fabrics, leather, etc.), formulations used in the production process (e.g. colours, finishing agents, etc.), availability of documentation, frequency and quantity of use in the supply chain, particularities and distinctiveness of certain effects, and so forth.
Tests on components, water, chemical formulations and finished products are carried out through ISO 17025 accredited third-party testing laboratories and are performed both by suppliers and the Group.
Accessories used in production undergo further inspection to analyse their technical compatibility with fabrics and garment care, such as the reaction with the detergents during washing, while for fabrics physical-mechanical properties such as water resistance, pilling, colour fastness, seams slippage, tear resistance, breathability, etc., are checked.
The Moncler Group does not tolerate any compromises in terms of health and quality: if a product does not pass the tests, the purchasing process is stopped until the supplier demonstrates that it can provide a product that complies with the requirements.
In terms of technical quality, with regards to the production process, during the supplier selection phase the experts of the quality assurance division of both Moncler and Stone Island attentively examine whether a partner has adequate skills and technologies that enable the production of garments in line with the required standards, that it can ensure constant and uniform quality levels. The experts then verify, on a weekly basis, the status of the process and compliance with the product quality standards.
Before starting the production process, each model is subjected to various fittings, aimed at verifying every detail and the alignment with the stylistic and model indications, and to ensure maximum comfort and wearability.
Lastly, prior to sale, all Moncler and Stone Island garments undergo a final quality inspection. These controls, through a structured and registered process, thoroughly check and ensure the aesthetics, characteristics, size, labelling and functionality of each of the two Brands’ garments. In particular, in this last phase the Group implements and verifies a complex anti-counterfeiting protocol using latest-generation technology.
Since 2018, through major investments in technology, Moncler has been strengthening the Castel San Giovanni, Piacenza, hub, where, in addition to logistics activities, other services are performed, including quality control and finished product control according to specific company protocols and part of after-sales service activities. The expansion of the facility is part of a major project implemented by the Company to be faster and more efficient in terms of time-to-market and, therefore, of service to the client.
11 Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals.
12 National Standard of the People’s Republic of China
13 Japanese Industrial Standards.