In particular, the PRSL applies to materials, treatments and prod- ucts, and includes not only the requirements of the most restric- tive regulations of countries where products are manufactured and sold but also olther more restrictive voluntary requirements, in line with a precautionary approach.
The PRSL has been prepared, with the support and verifi- cation of consultants and testing and certification companies, taking into account the requirements of the main industry stan- dards (including the American Apparel and Footwear Association AAFA and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), certification schemes of independent bodies, and the peculiarities of both Brands products.
The names of the relevant chemical substances and for- mulations, the CAS (Chemical Abstract Service) registry number, the analysis methods to be applied and reference parameters to comply with are reported. They also indicate the substances and target parameters for which suppliers are encouraged to improve and find alternatives.
The Group is aware of the importance of monitoring the chemical substances used in the production process to pre- vent potential contamination of materials, products, water and sludge. This monitoring is governed by the Manufacturing Re- stricted Substances List (MRSL) which, together with the PRSL, defines the list of substances that suppliers and subcontractors have to monitor during the various production phases in order to anticipate and reduce the risk of possible critical issues relating to products, materials and the environment, and provide the ba- sis for a proper production method and root-cause analysis. The Group s MRSL was defined taking into account the main industry standards (such as the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals- ZDHC, to which Stone Island adheres since 2021) and requires for further investigation and specific requirements.
The MRSL and PRSL apply to all levels of the supply chain involved in the production of materials and products. For param- eters, substances, methods and detection limits, suppliers are required to refer to the MRSL and/or PRSL depending on the sub- strates analysed and considered.
The MRSL and PRSL govern more than 350 chemicals and are two important tools in the Group s strategy to keep reducing its environmental impacts.
Suppliers and subcontractors, especially those involved in wet processes, are encouraged to proactively develop a chemi- cal management system through which monitor and test chem- icals- water and sludge, in addition to materials, components, products and treatments. This includes keeping the chemical in- ventory and documentation up to date, as well as implementing batch traceability and screening and/or testing different chemi- cal formulations at least seasonally, if not via sampling or during inspections.
Suppliers must verify that concentrations of substances iden- tifi ed in any substrate ensure compliance with legal requirements or with those of the Group, if more restrictive, and investigate the source of any problems, taking the appropriate corrective actions.
Both Brands monitor compliance with the requirements based on a sample check procedure that identifies the samples to be tested, frequency and tests to be performed. Test activities, carried out seasonally, start with the materials research phase and continue with the prototyping, sampling, and production phases.
Samples and substances to be tested are selected consid- ering the type of materials (fabrics, leather, etc.), formulations used in the production process (e.g. colours, finishing agents, etc.), availability of documentation, frequency and quantity of use in the supply chain, particularities and distinctiveness of certain effects, and so forth.
Tests on components, water, chemical formulations and finished products are carried out through ISO 17025 accredited third-party testing laboratories and are performed both by sup- pliers and the Group.
Accessories used in production undergo further inspection to analyse their technical compatibility with fabrics and garment care, such as the reaction with the detergents during washing, while for fabrics physical-mechanical properties such as water resistance, pilling, colour fastness, seams slippage, tear resis- tance, breathability, etc., are checked.
The Moncler Group does not tolerate any compromises in terms of health and quality: if a product does not pass the tests, the pur- chasing process is stopped until the supplier demonstrates that it can provide a product that complies with the requirements. In terms of technical quality, with regards to the production pro- cess, during the supplier selection phase the experts of the quali- ty assurance division of both Moncler and Stone Island attentively examine whether a partner has adequate skills and technologies that enable the production of garments in line with the required standards, that it can ensure constant and uniform quality levels. The experts then verify, on a weekly basis, the status of the pro- cess and compliance with the product quality standards.
Before starting the production process, each model is sub- jected to various fittings, aimed at verifying every detail and the alignment with the stylistic and model indications, and to ensure maximum comfort and wearability.
Lastly, prior to sale, all Moncler and Stone Island garments undergo a final quality inspection. These controls, through a structured and registered process, thoroughly check and ensure the aesthetics, characteristics, size, labelling and functionality of each of the two Brands garments. In particular, in this last phase the Group implements and verifies a complex anti-counterfeiting protocol using latest-generation technology.
Since 2018, through major investments in technology, Mon- cler has been strengthening the Castel San Giovanni, Piacenza, hub, where, in addition to logistics activities, other services are performed, including quality control and fi nished product control according to specifi c company protocols and part of after-sales ser- vice activities. The expansion of the facility is part of a major proj- ect implemented by the Company to be faster and more effi cient in terms of time-to-market and, therefore, of service to the client.
DOWN QUALITY Down is the most important thing to Moncler. Since the beginning of the Company s history, down has been the heart of every jacket, gradually becoming the identity of the Brand itself.
Thanks to its long experience and constant research and development, Moncler has now a unique expertise in terms of both knowledge of raw materials and garment manufacturing process. Moncler requires its suppliers to comply with the highest quality standards, which over the years have been, and continue to be, a key aspects of product differentiation. However, the Company s notion of quality goes even further: the origin of the down used and respect for animal welfare are also fundamental for Moncler and are taken into account in the raw materials purchasing pro- cess as much as quality. See also pages 145-146.
In particular, the technical quality of Moncler down is en- sured by a complex process that ensures that only the best white goose down is used to make garments. Each batch of down is dou- ble-checked to verify its compliance with 11 parameters, relating to quality (in addition to aspects of cleanliness and health), and identified by the strictest international regulations and the strin- gent requirements established by the Company: first through so- phisticated analysis by an accredited independent body and then through further tests carried out at Moncler s internal laboratory, performed by highly-specialised down technicians. In 2021 more than 1,000 tests were carried out.
Down cluster content and fill power are the main indica- tors of down quality. Moncler garments contain at least 90% white goose down cluster and only 10% feathers/small feathers. This high percentage of down cluster guarantees a high fill power, namely the capacity of the down to occupy volume: the higher the fill power, the greater the performance in terms of lightness, ther- mal capacity and insulating properties. Moncler down has a min- imum fill power level of 710 (cubic inches per 30 grams of down) translating into warm, soft and light garments, that are able to of- fer unique comfort.
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2021THINK CIRCULAR & BOLD THINK CIRCULAR & BOLD